How to: DIY Outlet Covers Using Thrift Store Frames.

 

So right, recently I redid my kitchen backsplash for under sixty bucks with swanky new tile.  What a mmph, yesss, feel good, hot diggity vibe too. 

(And heads up, this is one of the real examples from The $100 Room Glow-Up Guide playing out in real time.  Neat, right?)

But boy, the dang outlet covers were crying at me with their bright, boring blandness.  Rather than spending waaayy too much time dredging the internet for new ones as I'm wont to do, and having spotted a nifty idea on the Instagrams, I thought hey, I'll DIY some frame outlet covers using thrift store frames.  

And lo, as such, now you can too.

On the surface, while yes, super easy project, there are two key aspects to winning here:  a sturdy backing and super strong glue. 

I know, I know.  This probably seems a bizarre concept in general and you're scrunching your face at me like what the heck, Becky, but honestly, this turned out so much cooler than I imagined.  Because, you get to bring a little art into an unexpected spot, which to me, is brilliant.  Art FTW.

Clap clap, diving in....

First, the thrift store (or anywhere really:  dollar store, antique shop, retail store, maybe you have some on hand), I snagged some frames.  Look for ones that are light in weight and take note of the back. 

 

Yeah these are all stills from video.  Hopefully I'll come back here with a finished video, heh.

If you find some with artwork you already like, bonus.  If not, no worries. 

Back at home, as it turns out, the backing on one was cardboard, which, is a no-go for this project.  Not a problem, just a problem-solving pivot. 

For this particular frame, I opted to cover the entire backside with a piece of 1/8” thick wood. 

Now, not every frame is going to need a new full back cover, fyi, don't panic.  So long as the backing is sturdy and not wimpy cardboard, the clasping method is capable, you likely will be a-ok.  Do examine well though and go for a full new back if you feel the least bit worried.

There is a potential caveat to doing that though, which you'll see here shortly.

Digging around my unending scrap wood collection, I scraped up a piece of craft plywood.*  Ah, perfect.  With a pencil, trace around the frame back so you know where to cut. 

I used my miter saw* to cut this but a jigsaw* will do the job as will a hand saw.*  If anything, only the edges might be seen so it doesn’t need to be flawless or fit the whole back of the frame truly edge to edge, meaning it can be recessed, if you will.

Sand the raggedy edges as needed and do a quick double check dry fit to make sure the wood is sized right.

Next up, prep to adhere this plywood to the back of the frame.  Since the back of this frame was slicker than a buttered bowling ball, I used a rotary tool* with a flap wheel thingie* to rough the surface up.  Very coarse sandpaper* will work here.  Get the surface seriously roughed up in order for your adhesive to have a fighting chance.

So yes, mm hm, right, once the back is adhered here, you won’t be able to change out the artwork!  This was my caveat.

In thinking about it further though, hmph, depending on your frame, you could carefully screw the wood panel on which would allow you access to change out the art.  Shoulda done that, haha.  Ah well, hindsight...The more you know, *rainbow gesture.*

I printed one of my own pictures onto glossy photo paper* and re-learned my printer does a really crap job of printing them.  But, all I needed to do next besides harumph was trim it to fit the frame.

Clean up the glass ahead and it’s time to assemble the frame portion.  Set the glass back inside, add your artwork, close it up.

So next, we're adhering the plywood to the back of the frame.  Here I went with construction adhesive* as it has big time, monster grippies for the long haul.

With a caulk gun,* squirt the construction adhesive all around the back of the frame then spread it out so there’s more goo surface area for better grip. 

Line up your plywood backing piece and set it on the back of the frame.  Give it a bit of a wiggle, smush, and shift for good contact then straighten to get everything aligned.

Use clamps* to sandwich this or place something weighty atop as it sets.

Once it’s set, if you want to ensure not seeing the plywood edges, use a Sharpie* to black them out or paint to match the frame color. 

Conversely, if you're not adding plywood to the back, pile everything in and make sure you've taken off any stands or hanging hardware or related gack back there.  Easy to do with a little itty screwdriver* or pry things off carefully.

In the end, you really don’t need to worry about the back looking adorable since it’s unseen, ya know, just fyi.  You can paint the back if it bothers you. 

Ok, let’s prep the plug safety covers,* those little plastic gizmos that keep outlets protected from feral fingers or pets or errant swords or other things that should not be in them.  There are a variety pack of different types of these* and you can use pretty well any.

Grab a piece of your coarsest sandpaper which, I used 40 grit,* and scour up the surface of the plug safety cover really really well.  Change directions, loop circles, whatever, and hit the edges too.  This gives the glue we’re using its best shot.

 

To make sure everything is spot-on aligned I dug up an outlet* I extracted from somewhere to use as a template.  I know, it might be unlikely you have one lying around so turn off the power to the outlet you intend to cover and trace it or measure it.**    

But, I will say, it's very worth the dollar it costs to buy a spare outlet at the hardware store as that dollar spent saves time, anxiety, and also works as a clamp.

If you go the spare outlet* route, push the plug covers* into it.  These particular covers sit oh so very very snug which is the reason we’re making things so beefy.  Others?  I haven't tried so your mileage may vary; test them first at the very top of this project, like very first step.

Back to the back of the frame now so let's lay out where the plug covers will sit.  On this one I opted to have them sit center so I measured the frame each direction and marked center on the back with a pencil.

Next, I measured to the outer edges of the plug covers, divided by two, and marked that on the plywood, both directions, then connecting the dots, made a rectangle as a guide for where the plug covers needed to land. 

Glue up time, baby.  The only glue for this task is a two-part epoxy glue.*  Trust me on this one.  ...Trust me. 

It is quite stinky sh*t so make sure you use it in a well-ventilated area.  Spurt some out, a good dollop, mix it very well, and then blob the epoxy onto the plug covers nice and thickly. 

Then, set the plug covers onto the plywood inside the rectangle or onto the backing of your thrifted frame, making sure it’s all aligned properly so it'll sit correctly (and hopefully [foreshadowing] level) when plugged in.  It helps to use a square* here to make sure you’re lined up.  

Weight it down or clamp it up and let it cure for 24 hours.  Yes, the full 24.  Don't get squirrelly.

When 24 hours is up, you are rip-roarin' ready to go. 

Oh for my second frame, I thought hey, mmk, lemme create some art out of random bits collecting dust.  Yes, packrat tendencies revisited.  So I glued some thin craft cork* on the backing, gave it a tilted-beret artsy corner tear off.  

From there, I kinda just grabbed literally whatever.  A large foam gasket.  Ok.  Why not.  Snipped it with scissors then hot glued it to the cork.  Instant modern art!

I repeated the same process above with the wood backing business and plug covers.  

Though for this one, because the back sat deeper into the frame, I added a little 1z2 support piece.

Excitedly dashing back upstairs to the kitchen, I plugged these little thrift store frames into their outlets.  Stepped back and voilá, my backsplash went from yes to yes-ier!

 

FYI?  I don't push the frames all the way in.  Makes it easy to slip my fingers behind, securely grip the back, not just the edges, for removal which, given how often I use my mixer, it's pretty often.

Is it annoying and stupid to keep taking them off and putting them back on when I want to use an outlet?  Nope.  I think getting to see a whiff of art where you’d not see it normally outweighs stupidity. 

 

Aren’t they cool though?!  Who knew DIY outlet covers using thrift store frames would be a budget-friendly way to add fun, whimsy, a stylish art double-take, and glow to a space!  

And yeah, no, I know, turns out my outlets themselves aren't level.  hahaha!  Fix for another day.

Now go, run off and make some and a few extra, change them out at will.  Revel in banishing boring outlet covers.

See you in the frame aisle at the thrift store in ten!

Take this energy and transform your own space.   I’ll show you how for $100 or less.  Get The $100 Room Glow-Up Guide.

And btw, Pinterest without Flip Post is like DIY without tools.  Technically possible, but why would you? Unlimited pinning.  Zero time suck.

*The craft plywood, small screwdriver sets, rotary tools, flap wheels, glossy photo paper, Sharpies, and craft cork are Amazon affiliate links.  The Metabo (formerly Hitachi) miter saw, hand saws, coarse sandpaper options, 40 grit sandpapers, caulk guns, and two-part epoxy glue are Lowe's affiliate links.  The jigsaw, construction adhesive, clamps, and squares are Home Depot affiliate links.  The safety plug covers are Lowe's, Home Depot, and Amazon affiliate links.  The outlets are Lowe's and Home Depot affiliate links.  Mwah, thanks!  Please see the "boring stuff" tab for more info.

**Disclaimer:  Electricity is dangerous.  It can hurt you.  It can kill you.  Don't mess with live outlets, ever.  It's best to hire a qualified, licensed electrician if you don't know how to turn off the power.  Do not attempt to do anything electrical without the proper knowledge.  Do not ever take wiring advice from me.  And do not blow your house up.